It may be suffering from a lack of iron, as stated above, or it may be in an area that's too wet for its liking. Overwatering kills more plants than underwatering; you may want to look up the specific plant and its requirements to see what it needs in terms of light, water and soil type.
The leaves on my tree/shrub are yellowing, what’s wrong?
i feel it is going dead
Reply:Yellowing can be a sign of several different problems. But, one of the most common is iron deficiency. Iron chlorosis is identifiable by the yellowing of the leaf while the veins remain green. To treat this problem the plant needs to be fed iron. Chelated iron is the most readily available source. We have both liquid and granular formulas available. If a lack of iron isn’t the problem, don’t hesitate talking to one of our staff members to determine the cause of and the solution to the problem. It is always helpful to bring in a sample of the problem plant
Reply:The first step in diagnosis of what is wrong with your trees is to see if it is being caused by something going on internally or being caused by some external pest.
Look to see if there are any visible signs of insects on the leaves, or if there has been any damage to the bark of the tree, removing large portions of bark can cause problems.
The most common problem as been mentioned is Deficiencies of iron and/or manganese which cause yellowing of the leaves, (almost spotted on birtches) it could be the nutrients are in the soil by the ph of your soil is inhibiting plant abosorption. I suggest getting your soil tested, most garden centers will either do the service for you, or you can purchase small testing kits, and educate yourself on the specific needs for your trees. Some arborists also offer this service.
Another common problem is moisture either too wet or too dry.
If you cannot figure out the problem yourself either contact a local arborist (visit the www.treesaregood.com to find a certified ISA Arborist in your Area) or local garden center
Reply:pls observe if the plant in pots once u provid waterr, it should dry by evening, if it is in same wate condition pls check for the drainage or may be lac of water or the plant required shade
Reply:IF YOUR FOLIAGE IS YELLOW TO GREEN THE POSSIBLE CAUSES ARE: 1. NUTRIENT DIFICIENCIES, 2. POOR ROOT HEALTH DUE TO COMPACTED SOIL, POOR DRAINAGE, OR GIRDLING ROOTS, 3. WINTER DRYING, 4. ROOT OR CROWN INJURY, 5. AIR POLLUTION, 6. SOIL PH LOWER THAN 5 OR HIGHER THAN NEUTRAL (ALKALINE), 7. HERBICIDE INJURY, 8. MITES OR SCALE. IF YOUR LEAVES ARE YELLOW TO PALE GREEN AND THE VEINS OF THE LEAF ARE BRIGHT GREEN IT'S IRON OR MANGANESE DEFICIENCY. NUTRIENT AVAILABILITY IS ALL BASED UPON TH PH OF THE SOIL. DO A SOIL PH TEST. IF THE SOIL HAS A PH ABOVE NEUTRAL ( ALKALINE), ANYWAY YOU CAN GIVE IRON TO THE TREE WILL HELP. IRON IS IN THE SOIL BUT IT'S BOUND UP AND NOT RELEASED BECAUSE OF THE SOIL PH. THIS WILL NEED TO BE DONE ON A MAINTENANCE BASIS PROBABLY YEARLY BECAUSE IRON ONLY GOES UP AND WHEN IT'S UTILIZED IT'S GONE. IT'S THE ONLY MINERAL THAT DOESN'T GO DOWN. YOU CAN HIRE AN ARBORIST THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO GET IRON TO TREES AT THE SAME TIME HE CAN TREAT THE SOIL PH PROBLEM BY INJECTING A WATER SOLUBLE SULFER AT A RATE TO LOWER THE SOIL PH WHILE HE IS PERFORMING FERTILIZATION, THIS WILL NEED TO BE DONE TWICE A YEAR AT A RATE TO LOWER SOIL PH. IT TAKES ABOUT ONE YEAR TO LOWER THE SOIL PH JUST ONE UNIT. THIS MAY NEED TO BE DONE ON A CONTINUING BASIS BECAUSE THE SOIL PROBABLY HAS A BUFFERING CAPACITY THAT RESISTS CHANGE. ALSO, THE WATER SUPPLY AT THE LOCATION PROBABLY ALSO HAS A HIGH PH ALWAYS WORKING AGAINST YOU.
Reply:It is lack of iron in the soil, get some Sulphate of iron from your local nursery or hard ware.
Reply:may be the climate is not right for them....or they need more water you giving them less....or you overdoes the water, while they need less.
Reply:it depends upon the amount u water it..it may also happen due to changes in climate...
Friday, May 21, 2010
What exact cultivar of holly shrub is this you think?
I think maybe a nelly r stevens or burford?
just cut into a conical shape?
what do you think? see below
What exact cultivar of holly shrub is this you think?
It is hard to tell between it being: Foster's, Nellie, East Palatka, or Savannah. Judging by the dark color of the older leaves I am betting it is a Nellie. Yes, keep it in the conical form, it is doing well in that shape. I don't know what the flowers are in the picture.
Reply:The holly could be Ilex aquifolium and the hydrangeas badly need pruning
Reply:so how was it again that coco liked her mcdonalds no wait
it was burger king right can i get you anything charlie
just cut into a conical shape?
what do you think? see below
What exact cultivar of holly shrub is this you think?
It is hard to tell between it being: Foster's, Nellie, East Palatka, or Savannah. Judging by the dark color of the older leaves I am betting it is a Nellie. Yes, keep it in the conical form, it is doing well in that shape. I don't know what the flowers are in the picture.
Reply:The holly could be Ilex aquifolium and the hydrangeas badly need pruning
Reply:so how was it again that coco liked her mcdonalds no wait
it was burger king right can i get you anything charlie
Need inf re low-growing shrub-yellow & green small shiny leaves & large hairy stalk. Poisonous to touch?
The stalk is quite large for such a small bush and looks like a stalk found in the forest that is vine-like climbing on trees. It is brownish and very hairy. We have been told that particular vine is poisonous to the touch. Is that so? If so, could it be the same plant as the one described above which we found growing in the yard in Pennsylvania?
Need inf re low-growing shrub-yellow %26amp; green small shiny leaves %26amp; large hairy stalk. Poisonous to touch?
Without a picture, I hesitate to comment. Wearing protective gear, cut a portion of the stalk and be sure to include leaves. Bag it in plastic and immediately take it to your local nursery...NOT HOME DEPOT, WALMART, ETC....a bona fide nursery. If they cannot identify it, take it to your County Extension Agent, listed in your government pages in your phone book.
Reply:A large hairy vine with yellow and green leaves is not poisonous to the touch. You can view a list of the plants that ARE poisonous here: http://www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants/coml...
Need inf re low-growing shrub-yellow %26amp; green small shiny leaves %26amp; large hairy stalk. Poisonous to touch?
Without a picture, I hesitate to comment. Wearing protective gear, cut a portion of the stalk and be sure to include leaves. Bag it in plastic and immediately take it to your local nursery...NOT HOME DEPOT, WALMART, ETC....a bona fide nursery. If they cannot identify it, take it to your County Extension Agent, listed in your government pages in your phone book.
Reply:A large hairy vine with yellow and green leaves is not poisonous to the touch. You can view a list of the plants that ARE poisonous here: http://www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants/coml...
Is there a hydrangea bush/shrub that likes full sun?
First of all I live in the Chicago are and have a south-facing home, so it gets sun from 6am to about 12-1pm. I have one but the leaves burn bc of the stong sun. Downtown I saw some on a south-facing home and they look beautiful. Would Annabelle one's work?
Is there a hydrangea bush/shrub that likes full sun?
yes. does well in full sun if soil moisture is sufficient. 'Annabelle' grows in Maine;a popular, superior plant
Reply:The only ones I know of must be in mostly shade. It's possible some species can tolerate more sun, check the Sunset Garden Book. It's also possible that you didn't take notice of other plants or structures that are providing shade to the ones you saw on the south side of that house. Because of the large leaves of hydrangea they lose water quickly (more surface area so they have more stomata, the structure that allows water evaporation from the leaves) and must be watered daily. If you want to keep the plants you have, move them to the back and north side of your home. They will like it there.
Reply:YES
Reply:Annabelle's (Hydrangea arborescens) are beautiful with the largest clusters of white flowers, but the evening sun will scorch the leaves and the flowers won't bloom the way you would like. The Hydrangea paniculeta commonly know as PeeGee is probably the best suited of all Hydrangeas for direct southern exposure. Just remember to keep the roots moist. Adding a thick layer of much will also help keep the delicate root system cool in the heat of the day.
Reply:As far as I know they all do. You might want to make sure you give it plenty of water, but not too much. Giving too much water is as damaging as too little.
new year lily
Is there a hydrangea bush/shrub that likes full sun?
yes. does well in full sun if soil moisture is sufficient. 'Annabelle' grows in Maine;a popular, superior plant
Reply:The only ones I know of must be in mostly shade. It's possible some species can tolerate more sun, check the Sunset Garden Book. It's also possible that you didn't take notice of other plants or structures that are providing shade to the ones you saw on the south side of that house. Because of the large leaves of hydrangea they lose water quickly (more surface area so they have more stomata, the structure that allows water evaporation from the leaves) and must be watered daily. If you want to keep the plants you have, move them to the back and north side of your home. They will like it there.
Reply:YES
Reply:Annabelle's (Hydrangea arborescens) are beautiful with the largest clusters of white flowers, but the evening sun will scorch the leaves and the flowers won't bloom the way you would like. The Hydrangea paniculeta commonly know as PeeGee is probably the best suited of all Hydrangeas for direct southern exposure. Just remember to keep the roots moist. Adding a thick layer of much will also help keep the delicate root system cool in the heat of the day.
Reply:As far as I know they all do. You might want to make sure you give it plenty of water, but not too much. Giving too much water is as damaging as too little.
new year lily
The leaves on my tree/shrub are yellowing, what’s wrong?
Either too much water or too little water, or attack by some fungus or insect, or frost, or wind, or maybe lack of sufficient sunlight, or all of the above... or non of the above!!!
Look, you don't tell us what kind of plant it is, where you live, or any other facts... how can you expect a reasonable answer, that has ANY validity??
The leaves on my tree/shrub are yellowing, what’s wrong?
winter?
Reply:Yellowing can be a sign of several different problems. But, one of the most common is iron deficiency. Iron chlorosis is identifiable by the yellowing of the leaf while the veins remain green. To treat this problem the plant needs to be fed iron. Chelated iron is the most readily available source. We have both liquid and granular formulas available. If a lack of iron isn’t the problem, don’t hesitate talking to one of our staff members to determine the cause of and the solution to the problem. It is always helpful to bring in a sample of the problem plant.
Reply:over watering...over fertilizing........maybe just this crazy weather has the shrub confused
Reply:yellowing of leaves is due to its ageing. The phenomena behind this ageing is that chlorophyll is destroyed
Reply:You tree/shrub is dying. Not enough nutients, weather not right, bug infestation, or insufficient water.
Reply:Iron deficieny, from the looks of it. Add chelated iron.
Reply:Might be that your plant is not supplied with the essential nutrients.Might br that u did not water it for many days.
Reply:It's not always easy to cure iron chlorosis --a common ailment of many garden plants that causes leaf tissue between the veins to turn yellow. Iron may be lacking in the soil, but more often--especially in alkaline soils--it is present but unavailable to plant roots because it is insoluble. Cold, wet, or poorly drained soil aggravates a chlorotic condition.
There are several methods available to treat iron chlorosis. Some are only temporary, others are long-lasting.
Sprinkling and spraying. Chelated iron sprinkled within the drip line will usually green up the leaves in two to three weeks (apply it to bare soil, since a lawn will tie most of it up). On a tree, this treatment may last a couple of years.
Or, if the tree is not too large and you have an adequate spraying system, spray chelated iron directly onto the foliage (this will last only about one season). In both cases, follow package directions.
Improving the soil. The longest-lasting solution is to correct watering practices (if necessary) or to acidify the soil with sulfur. First, check soil moisture by digging down which a trowel. If the soil is too wet, reduce watering and wait to see if the plant greens up in late spring.
If you can't reduce watering because the plant is growing in a lawn, or if it doesn't green up as the soil dries out, you probably need to acidify the soil. You also need to do this if the soil is simply too alkaline. To find out, have its pH tested at a soil-testing lab (look in the yellow pages under Laboratories--Testing).
Depending on how alkaline the soil is and whether the soil is sandy or clayey, adjust the pH by applying 2 to 4 pounds of soil sulfur per 100 square feet to the soil within the plant's drip line (use lower amounts in sandy soil). Work the sulfur into the top of the soil. Most types of soil sulfur act slowly (months may pass before you see improvement), so use chelated iron as well to green up the foliage quickly.
If the plant is growing in a lawn, get soil sulfur down to the roots by applying it in holes under the drip line (to learn how, see "Tips for beginning gardeners' on page 176 of the March 1987 Sunset).
You can use iron sulfate to green up the foliage--it will usually last at least five years--but it acts slowly and it won't change the soil pH.
When plants need nitrogen, apply ammonium sulfate, which tends to lower the soil pH.
Quick-fix implants. Another treatment available in nurseries for trees and large shrubs is the fertilizer implant--an inch-long capsule containing iron and sometimes other micronutrients. You embed 3 to 10 or more of them into the trunk (depending on its diameter) in 1 1/4-inch-deep holes you drill every 3 to 4 inches in a spiral pattern. They cause the leaves to green up quickly.
But the cure is temporary and potentially damaging; it should be used only as a last resort.
If soil conditions remain unchanged, the leaves will turn chlorotic again in a year or two, and then you must repeat the treatment.
Also, this quick-fix approach can disfigure the trunk and may weaken the tree, especially if it must be repeated. Any puncturing of the bark opens the tree to possible invasion by disease and decay organisms. Recent research shows that the fertilizer in the capsule can also damage the wood surrounding the hole. And if the trunk gets wet or sap leaks out where the capsules are implanted, the ooze may discolor the bark.
Reply:POSSIBILITIES ARE: (1). NUTRIENT DEFICIENCIES, (2). POOR ROOT HEALTH DUE TO COMPACTED SOIL, POOR DRAINAGE, OR GIRDLING ROOTS, (3). WINTER DRYING, (4). ROOT OR CROWN INJURY, ( 5). AIR POLLUTION, ( 6). SOIL PH LOWER THAN 5.0 OR HIGHER THAN 8.0, (7). HERBICIDE INJURY, ( 8). MITES OR SCALE.
Look, you don't tell us what kind of plant it is, where you live, or any other facts... how can you expect a reasonable answer, that has ANY validity??
The leaves on my tree/shrub are yellowing, what’s wrong?
winter?
Reply:Yellowing can be a sign of several different problems. But, one of the most common is iron deficiency. Iron chlorosis is identifiable by the yellowing of the leaf while the veins remain green. To treat this problem the plant needs to be fed iron. Chelated iron is the most readily available source. We have both liquid and granular formulas available. If a lack of iron isn’t the problem, don’t hesitate talking to one of our staff members to determine the cause of and the solution to the problem. It is always helpful to bring in a sample of the problem plant.
Reply:over watering...over fertilizing........maybe just this crazy weather has the shrub confused
Reply:yellowing of leaves is due to its ageing. The phenomena behind this ageing is that chlorophyll is destroyed
Reply:You tree/shrub is dying. Not enough nutients, weather not right, bug infestation, or insufficient water.
Reply:Iron deficieny, from the looks of it. Add chelated iron.
Reply:Might be that your plant is not supplied with the essential nutrients.Might br that u did not water it for many days.
Reply:It's not always easy to cure iron chlorosis --a common ailment of many garden plants that causes leaf tissue between the veins to turn yellow. Iron may be lacking in the soil, but more often--especially in alkaline soils--it is present but unavailable to plant roots because it is insoluble. Cold, wet, or poorly drained soil aggravates a chlorotic condition.
There are several methods available to treat iron chlorosis. Some are only temporary, others are long-lasting.
Sprinkling and spraying. Chelated iron sprinkled within the drip line will usually green up the leaves in two to three weeks (apply it to bare soil, since a lawn will tie most of it up). On a tree, this treatment may last a couple of years.
Or, if the tree is not too large and you have an adequate spraying system, spray chelated iron directly onto the foliage (this will last only about one season). In both cases, follow package directions.
Improving the soil. The longest-lasting solution is to correct watering practices (if necessary) or to acidify the soil with sulfur. First, check soil moisture by digging down which a trowel. If the soil is too wet, reduce watering and wait to see if the plant greens up in late spring.
If you can't reduce watering because the plant is growing in a lawn, or if it doesn't green up as the soil dries out, you probably need to acidify the soil. You also need to do this if the soil is simply too alkaline. To find out, have its pH tested at a soil-testing lab (look in the yellow pages under Laboratories--Testing).
Depending on how alkaline the soil is and whether the soil is sandy or clayey, adjust the pH by applying 2 to 4 pounds of soil sulfur per 100 square feet to the soil within the plant's drip line (use lower amounts in sandy soil). Work the sulfur into the top of the soil. Most types of soil sulfur act slowly (months may pass before you see improvement), so use chelated iron as well to green up the foliage quickly.
If the plant is growing in a lawn, get soil sulfur down to the roots by applying it in holes under the drip line (to learn how, see "Tips for beginning gardeners' on page 176 of the March 1987 Sunset).
You can use iron sulfate to green up the foliage--it will usually last at least five years--but it acts slowly and it won't change the soil pH.
When plants need nitrogen, apply ammonium sulfate, which tends to lower the soil pH.
Quick-fix implants. Another treatment available in nurseries for trees and large shrubs is the fertilizer implant--an inch-long capsule containing iron and sometimes other micronutrients. You embed 3 to 10 or more of them into the trunk (depending on its diameter) in 1 1/4-inch-deep holes you drill every 3 to 4 inches in a spiral pattern. They cause the leaves to green up quickly.
But the cure is temporary and potentially damaging; it should be used only as a last resort.
If soil conditions remain unchanged, the leaves will turn chlorotic again in a year or two, and then you must repeat the treatment.
Also, this quick-fix approach can disfigure the trunk and may weaken the tree, especially if it must be repeated. Any puncturing of the bark opens the tree to possible invasion by disease and decay organisms. Recent research shows that the fertilizer in the capsule can also damage the wood surrounding the hole. And if the trunk gets wet or sap leaks out where the capsules are implanted, the ooze may discolor the bark.
Reply:POSSIBILITIES ARE: (1). NUTRIENT DEFICIENCIES, (2). POOR ROOT HEALTH DUE TO COMPACTED SOIL, POOR DRAINAGE, OR GIRDLING ROOTS, (3). WINTER DRYING, (4). ROOT OR CROWN INJURY, ( 5). AIR POLLUTION, ( 6). SOIL PH LOWER THAN 5.0 OR HIGHER THAN 8.0, (7). HERBICIDE INJURY, ( 8). MITES OR SCALE.
What is the most popular shrub in Southern California?
Hi Karen, first let me apolagize for the remark made by paul t. it has been reported to the powers that be. and yes paul t, i reported you and will do so every time you make a comment like that to a lady on this sight. so unless you want to match wits with me i suggest you find a way to becoming a gentlemen or bail from this sight. i don't want to tell your mommy on you and you do NOT want to be on my naughty list.
Enought for dealing with kids, not onto your. i donot think it was ever put to a vote, but the one shrub with the most retail sales has remained the same for the past several years. drum roll please.........
Nandina domestica!
one of my favorates for many reason.
it doesn't catch stuff like rust or mildew
bugs don't seem to like it.
it seldom needs attention
it doesn't drink alot to look good
it's not fussy about soil
it does well in the sun and in the shade
its foliage changes colors with the seasons
it gives you some small white flowers in summer and around the holidays it puts out a bunch of dark red holly-like berries.
it comes in a dwarf a foot tall, to a fulls size up tp 4 foot tall. it is an all around great little shrub. the only bad thing i can saw about it is it cheats at bowling. never take a nandinia bowling with you.
What is the most popular shrub in Southern California?
hi
im Raj
and I hav one word for you ! you
are simly gorgeouscan u please
come online and we can talk with each other
please my id is dont_fear4me@yahoo.co.in please do reply me!
Reply:mirkin
Reply:its cool
Enought for dealing with kids, not onto your. i donot think it was ever put to a vote, but the one shrub with the most retail sales has remained the same for the past several years. drum roll please.........
Nandina domestica!
one of my favorates for many reason.
it doesn't catch stuff like rust or mildew
bugs don't seem to like it.
it seldom needs attention
it doesn't drink alot to look good
it's not fussy about soil
it does well in the sun and in the shade
its foliage changes colors with the seasons
it gives you some small white flowers in summer and around the holidays it puts out a bunch of dark red holly-like berries.
it comes in a dwarf a foot tall, to a fulls size up tp 4 foot tall. it is an all around great little shrub. the only bad thing i can saw about it is it cheats at bowling. never take a nandinia bowling with you.
What is the most popular shrub in Southern California?
hi
im Raj
and I hav one word for you ! you
are simly gorgeouscan u please
come online and we can talk with each other
please my id is dont_fear4me@yahoo.co.in please do reply me!
Reply:mirkin
Reply:its cool
I need help on the shrub hibiscus syriacus arden , height length width, size and colour of flower, thanks x?
Rose-of-Sharon is valued for large flowers produced in mid-to late summer when few other shrubs bloom. The plant grows in sun or partial shade and in any soil. Rose-of- Sharon grows 8 to 10 feet tall and spreads 6 to 10 feet. The growth rate ranges from slow to moderate, and transplanting is easy. The single or double flowers are in shades of red, pink, white and purple, depending on the cultivar. Peak bloom takes place in August. Prune in late winter or early spring. Frequent severe pruning gives fewer but larger flowers; no or little pruning gives many small flowers. Young plants are not as hardy as older plants.
Many cultivars are listed but few will be seen in catalogs. Cultivars include: 'Admiral Dewey'--single, white flowers; 'Arden'--purple, semi-double flowers; 'Bluebird'- -single, bluish purple flowers; 'Boule de Feu'--double, purplish red flowers; 'coelestris'-- single, light violet flowers, blooms early; 'coerulis'--semi-double, light purple flowers; 'coerulis plenus'--double, lavender flowers; 'Duc de Brabant'--double, deep purplish pink flowers; 'Hamabo'--single, pale pink flowers, with reddish stripes halfway up the petals; 'Jeanne d'Arc'--double, white flowers; 'Lady Stanley'--semi-double, white flowers with bluish pink on each petal and red lines running half way up the petal; 'Leopoldii plenus'-- double flowers, blushed pink; 'Lucy'--dark pink, double flowers; 'Mauve Queen'--mauve flowers, 'paeoniflorus'--double pink flowers; 'rubus'--rose pink, single flowers, petals darker at the base; 'Souvenir de Charles Breton'--semi-double, light purple flowers; 'totus albus'-- single, pure white flowers; 'Woodbridge'--single flowers, reddish purple, darker at the base.
http://www.oldhouseweb.com/gardening/gar...
http://www.oldhouseweb.com/gardening/gar...
I need help on the shrub hibiscus syriacus arden , height length width, size and colour of flower, thanks x?
H.syriacus (8ftx8ft height x spread).The single flowered ones are available in several colours - the most popular one is 'Blue Bird' (violet-blue flower with a dark eye 3 ins. across).
My book says - The stiff and upright branches are clothed with large saucer shaped blooms which are often dark-centred and are available in a range of beautiful colours. The experts agree that Hibiscus is one of the most attractive of all the late flowering bushes, but it has a number of fussy needs and one or two drawbacks. The soil must be free-draining and both full sun and protection from cold winds are essential. Do have patience - it takes some time to establish.
Many cultivars are listed but few will be seen in catalogs. Cultivars include: 'Admiral Dewey'--single, white flowers; 'Arden'--purple, semi-double flowers; 'Bluebird'- -single, bluish purple flowers; 'Boule de Feu'--double, purplish red flowers; 'coelestris'-- single, light violet flowers, blooms early; 'coerulis'--semi-double, light purple flowers; 'coerulis plenus'--double, lavender flowers; 'Duc de Brabant'--double, deep purplish pink flowers; 'Hamabo'--single, pale pink flowers, with reddish stripes halfway up the petals; 'Jeanne d'Arc'--double, white flowers; 'Lady Stanley'--semi-double, white flowers with bluish pink on each petal and red lines running half way up the petal; 'Leopoldii plenus'-- double flowers, blushed pink; 'Lucy'--dark pink, double flowers; 'Mauve Queen'--mauve flowers, 'paeoniflorus'--double pink flowers; 'rubus'--rose pink, single flowers, petals darker at the base; 'Souvenir de Charles Breton'--semi-double, light purple flowers; 'totus albus'-- single, pure white flowers; 'Woodbridge'--single flowers, reddish purple, darker at the base.
http://www.oldhouseweb.com/gardening/gar...
http://www.oldhouseweb.com/gardening/gar...
I need help on the shrub hibiscus syriacus arden , height length width, size and colour of flower, thanks x?
H.syriacus (8ftx8ft height x spread).The single flowered ones are available in several colours - the most popular one is 'Blue Bird' (violet-blue flower with a dark eye 3 ins. across).
My book says - The stiff and upright branches are clothed with large saucer shaped blooms which are often dark-centred and are available in a range of beautiful colours. The experts agree that Hibiscus is one of the most attractive of all the late flowering bushes, but it has a number of fussy needs and one or two drawbacks. The soil must be free-draining and both full sun and protection from cold winds are essential. Do have patience - it takes some time to establish.
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